DIY 2000w Electric Bike

Hello everyone ! Design and print battery cells holder 2x of these 21700 "tesla" cell, I choose this type to maximize weight, volume & capacity checking voltage must be same Put the whole thing in the frame, use sandpaper to widen the hole if it's too tight If you like my works, sub to my channel If you have any questions, please leave a comment! The above batteries are all the same type, only the color of the outer shell is different Battery pack configuration: 70 cells Li-ion 21700 5000mAh, 14s5p (58.8V – 25Ah ~ 1,4kWh) Theoretically, the continuous discharge current is 1C (25A), the maximum discharge is 3C (75A), the maximum charge is 0.5C (12A). but I will build just enough for a 1500w motor, using a Daly BMS, discharge up to 40A adjust and should test the spot welder before makeing directly to the battery to avoid unexpected problems Depending on the welding machine, will have their own way of adjusting please be careful Do not let the nickel strip fall into the battery pack, it will short the battery, very dangerous check the voltage of each series when done so that's it!!! I will welding more nickel strip to divide the current, avoid overload when high discharge Use copper wire stripping to increase the load of nickel strip When the load is high and the nickel strip is too thin, it will be hot & dangerous to cause fire reinforce this part because it is a bridge between 2 packs of 7s5p according to my design Don't criticize bad welding ^^! Now do the 2 main poles + – of the battery Looking for a high-powered soldering iron to make the tin flow faster, mine is a bit old 🙁 Use insulating paper to wrap the battery pack or Battery Insulation Gasket is better I ran out of fiberglass tape, so I will use this guy :)) drill holes for bms wiring 40A 14s battery manager systerm with common charging and discharging port BMS must be unplugged before soldering to battery pack I don't want to cut the cord, so I'll pack it up final check before plugging in the BMS no need to check if you want to throw money out the window.

Hehe lucky no boommmmmm Check continuity between B- and P- ok then connect B- of BMS to the negative terminal of the battery I have to draw the battery case It takes about 30 minutes to draw, but it prints more than a day ~~! soldering xt60 jack to make a dis/charging port, poor people should combine 2 wires to 1 🙁 Just kidding, the cord is too big to fit this cap silicone sealant to create machine seals, used to prevent water The battery capacity meter done solder the positive (+) wire of the xt60 jack to the positive terminal of the battery solder the P- wire of the BMS to the negative (-) wire of the xt60 jack check the voltage ok or not the battery cover printed by a century ~~! look good Print the cover on both sides on decal paper and cut 2mm thick aluminum plate is good cutting these aluminum sheets is so tiring.

grinding & drilling drill a big hole and then file it, the file looks horrible… The feeling of…. :)))) Use red sandpaper to roughen the edges 2 layers of insulation for safety Apply waterproof sealant final stage…. This battery weighs 6.3kg, everyone 5A charger 3d printing a new charging plug look good red indicates…. is charging a good China charger weld the battery mount frame, use 2mm thicker metal sheet to be good electric scooter locks should add a little oil to smooth :)) My battery pack is designed according to this bike frame & used for other purposes Depending on the bike, make the battery shape accordingly Someplace usually sell detachable ebike battery case or complete batteries just buy and attach to the bike locate for controller & drill – weld more screw position When it's all done, just paint it I don't have bicycle flywheel remover so will do this way Bicycle tire is quite easy to remove main character…

1500w brushless hub motor I don't know about other bikes but the fat wheels have 2 shaft lengths, 170mm and 190mm Tighten the shaft & re-align the disc brake mount the battery frame to the bike and controller attach the lcd screen, brake lever, control button… The controller of this kit is not the universal controller for electric bike/ scooter on the market its name is Kunteng KT motor controller using microchip STM8s 12 mosfets ST 110n7f6 68V, so I can still use it for 14s battery pack (58v) Its label only mentions for 36/48v systems, of course the cut-off feature of this controller will not be accurate for 52v systems.

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I will update the firmware to tweak more power later LCD8S control button Remove bicycle crank to install pedal assist sensor It doesn't fit so I have to mod it connect the wires together it took a decade to 3d print this cap… and then paint it well~~! add a small detail The wires is too long, I don't want to cut it, what should I do? borrow doraemon the magic bag :))) power supply connector for the controller Wrap tightly with tape to prevent water Use fiberglass tape to reduce the battery's slippage to the battery frame & avoid further scratching the battery repaint the battery to the same color tone The Flash…. the video is too long, but I have to make 2 more fenders…

If there are no fenders, in the rainy season will be badddd :)) Well, I don't make electric bike lock because I kept my bike in house and using bicycle folding lock only need one high current relay or SSR DC relay + voltage regular to 12v to trigger relay by Ignition Key Switch Lock i will add gps module directly to battery & unlock the bike via app Enjoy the results… Convenient removable battery, charging or plugging in the bike is also worked Hold down the power button to turn it on or off. no battery drain when turned off Da Nang city is so beautiful, isn't it everyone!! It was hot and sunny day now hit the road… this bicycle saddle hurt my *ss…. so i will go home afer ~30 kilometer the top speed according to gps is nearly 60km/h, the bike's lcd is not accurate ~30km from the full battery (58v) and now I have 45% left.

4 times crossing the bridge, hardcore test always at max power ~1700w. with normal usage I think my battery can go 50~60 kilometer, not using pedal. If you use the power assist mode, you will definitely go further The position of the controller is in front, good heat dissipation, so it is not too hot The motor is quite hot, temperature 48~50 oC when I got home Thank you for watching, if you have any questions please leave a comment..

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